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Thread: Honda guys. Question about ignition switch.

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    Senior Member Randy Hickman's Avatar
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    Honda guys. Question about ignition switch.

    Again, asking for a friend. Anybody know how to go about bypassing a bad ignition switch on a 1991 Civic DX (manual transmission. That's apparently an important difference in the way the ignition switch is set up, I'm told.)? The replacement part costs more than my buddy paid for the car...
    53 FSP
    RatHammer Motorsports
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Hickman View Post
    Again, asking for a friend. Anybody know how to go about bypassing a bad ignition switch on a 1991 Civic DX (manual transmission. That's apparently an important difference in the way the ignition switch is set up, I'm told.)? The replacement part costs more than my buddy paid for the car...
    If you don't get a quick answer here.

    I do not know, however, you might check with Mark Foust. Between him and his brother who works for Honda there is a wealth of knowledge.

    H
    Hank Derr
    In Cheyenne

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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Hickman View Post
    Again, asking for a friend. Anybody know how to go about bypassing a bad ignition switch on a 1991 Civic DX (manual transmission. That's apparently an important difference in the way the ignition switch is set up, I'm told.)? The replacement part costs more than my buddy paid for the car...
    Your buddy bought a '91 DX for less than $70? Sign me up! I have a parts car (89 Si manual, same switch as far as I know) sitting in my garage if he wants to try it out for cheaper than a new part. Also, is your buddy sure that it's the switch and not the clutch safety sensor?
    Jeff Tattershall 23 STS

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    here is a link to my site with a wiring diagram of what circuits are active.. http://mycomputerninja.com/~jon/IgnitionSwitch.html

    As I mentioned on the site, you can pop the switch out and open it up to clean the contacts inside it if you are careful. Also, a common issue is cold soldering over years of high voltage transmission and heat. It is worth it to touch up the soldering with copious flux to remove impurities and corrosion.

    if the switch is in good shape, the clutch interlock switch may have died.

    does it turn over but not start? or no turning over? or?

    also.. another option is to just jump the starter solenoid with a wire to the battery with the ignition switch briefly in the start position then dropped to the run position.. if the start circuit is bad, but run is good, then the car should then run.
    Last edited by sanimalp; 07-31-2017 at 02:03.

  5. #5
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    Hey Randy,
    Did you get an answer? As others asked, what is the problem? Key not working? No crank..? No start..? No crank is probably the clutch interlock switch. It may be bad or the wiring could be AFU (corrosion, pulled connector comes to mind). He could try tying the wires down at the clutch pedal together to see if it’s the switch itself or something in the wiring. I added a toggle in parallel to allow me to start mine without getting into the car to press the clutch in.
    It would be possible to by-pass the ignition switch if you cut into the harness and bring out the two ignition circuits to a couple toggle switches. One would need to be an on-off switch for “on”, the other would need to be a momentary type and would be the "start" switch. Normally the ignition switch kills everything that isn't needed for the car to start and run so he would need to make sure everything that can be turned off, is, before starting the car. You still have the steering wheel lock to deal with though. If he's going to tear into the car all the way up to the ignition switch I would be easiest to just replace the switch. The biggest PITA is the security bolts that hold it in-place. They have to be drilled out. I took the entire steering column out when I did mine. I had to disable the locking mechanism per GCR rules, not replace the switch, but to do that requires removing the switch. Also, my car was gutted at the time so pulling the column wasn't a big deal.

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